Thinking about visiting these two Loire Valley appellations? This is what they have in store for red wine enthusiasts..
Every conversation about Loire Valley Cabernet Franc needs to include Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-De Bourgueil. The debates over the characteristic variance presented by the two appellations wine is a mere 85 years old; which is nothing considering that Cabernet Franc has thrived here for well over one thousand years.
Two small, dedicated wine making towns focusing heavily on Cabernet Franc; Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil are quite often (and rather unfairly) overlooked in favour of neighbouring Chinon and nearby Saumur.
Home to only 4000 (Bourgueil) and 1200 (St-Nicolas) people, the communes themselves are beautifully preserved, offering truly genuine insights into the hearts and souls of modest, devoted French winemaking towns.
Nowhere on earth showcases the ability of Cabernet Franc, known locally as Breton, with such humility, poise and precision.
What is Tuffeau and why is it important?
One of the soil types in the vineyards on the higher slopes here is rare and exclusive to The Loire Valley. It is called Tuffeau.
Tuffeau is a local limestone native to The Loire which can be seen when viewing some incredible architecture such as Chateau Chenonceaux. This is because nearby, Tuffeau was mined intensively hundreds of years ago, with the stone being used extensively to construct buildings of many kinds.
Due to the pliability of Tuffeau, being half the density of granite, it became indespensible in the creation of many beautiful chateaux throughout The Loire Valley. Incidentally, due to the abundance of this magnificent stone, Tuffeau became extremely popular with wine growers as the base soil on which to plant Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc vines.
Vineyards planted in Tuffeau are generally thought to produce more complex and longlived wine that express its terroir particularly well with the Cabernet Franc variety.
A Veritable Plethora of Degrees on the Cabernet Franc Spectrum
Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil are limited by AOC regulations to only making red and rosé wine, predominantly from Cabernet Franc. The relatively low yielding grape variety far more often than not stands alone in single varietal wines, known here as Vin de Cepage.
Both region’s best reds offer true and pure expressions of the terroir. So whilst the red wine produced here might not equal Samur’s in terms of richness or body, it can be equally charming in character and regularly superior in terms of minerality, complexity and vigor.
There are at least three different styles of red made in Bourgueil & Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Two are lighter and can be described as fresh and vibrant; whereas the other is medium bodied, slightly less approachable in its youth but far more rewarding of the patience required to cellar for many years.
On top of the distinct style variations presented by the two appellations, each winemakers personal preference for vinifying their wine in oak barrels or stainless steel vats also contributes to the profile of the finished wine. For these reasons, tasters shall find a veritable plethora of degrees on the Cabernet Franc spectrum when tasting at a winery that offers a selection from both regions.
Winemakers often have vineyards in both appellations and are able to offer samples of cuvees from various plots. It is hardly surprising when you consider that some Bourgueil vineyards are only a few hundred metres away from Chinon vineyards, facing one another on opposing banks of The Loire river, that certain Bourgueil winemakers also produce Chinon.
Including Chinon rouge gives a further dimension to a Cabernet Franc tasting with comparisons often proving to be illuminating and informative. It is almost never the case that the quality of one appellation is far greater than the other; generally only personal preference will dictate which Cabernet Franc to opt for.
BOURGUEIL
Apellation status since: 1937
Region size (vineyard total): 1400 hectares
Soil: Tuffeau, sandy gravelly pebbles
Connecting river: Loire (right bank)
Wine styles: RED (2-5% of total wine produced is rosé)
Permitted grapes: Cabernet Franc (max 10% cabernet sauvignon)
Food pairing: Filet de porc
Two distinct styles of red Bourgueil are predominant, although other rarities can also be found.
The first is vins de terrasses, and is grown on sandy gravelly plateaus closer to the Loire river itself. This is a smooth and delicate, light and fruity style wine.
The second style, vins de tuf is grown on the aforementioned Tuffeau soil on higher slopes. Grapes grown on this terroir typically ripen a week earlier than those grown on the sandy gravel plateau, giving the wine more complexity. Vins de tuf wine is silky and smoky, often heavier bodied and well structured, featuring notes of leather and mushroom and tinted with an orange-brown hue.
Given its structure, the vins de tuf style generally keeps for longer and develops into a more complex wine as it ages.
YEAR ESTABLISHED
1937
size in hectares
1400
grape varities
cab franc
main wine style
red
attached river
Loire
number of winemakers
163
ST NICOLAS DE BOURGUEIL
Apellation status since: 1937
Region size (vineyard total): 1050 hectares
Soil: Tuffeau, sandy gravel
Connecting river: Loire (right bank)
Wine styles: RED (just 2-5% of total wine produced is rosé)
Permitted grapes: Cabernet Franc (max 10% cabernet sauvignon)
Food pairing: Pot au Feu
Less powerful, with more finesse. The red wine of St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil is more aromatic, more acidic and generally lighter than that of its neighbour, providing a beautiful counterpoint to the two styles of Bourgueil detailed above.
YEAR ESTABLISHED
1937
size in hectares
1050
grape varities
cab franc
main wine style
red
attached river
Loire
number of winemakers
99
